Step 9 – Cleaning and Organizing Your Sewing Room

Posted on February 22, 2012 by Joyce Blowers

By now you have pretty well cleaned and organized your sewing room and provided wonderful decor and ambiance.  You machine(s) are primed and ready to work tirelessly for you.  Step 9 addresses one last area that needs organization before you are ready to move forward with those great quilting projects you have planned.

How Would You Organize This Stash?

Step 9:  Sort and organize your fabric stash.  Oh, I can almost hear the groans!  Bear with me, though, as I walk you though the process.  Before long, your fabric will be organized so that you will be able to find just the right color, shade or tint you need.

Here is the method I use for organizing my stash.

  1. Sort the fabrics into major colors – red, orange, yellow, green, blue, and violet.
  2. Separate each color group into tints and tones.  A tint of a color has white added to it, for example, the tint of red is pink.  A tone is the color with black added, for example, the tone of red is maroon.
  3. Arrange each pile by value from the lightest value to the darkest.   Value is comparing each fabric with the others in the same pile.
  4. Specialty fabrics, such as novelty fabrics for I Spy quilts and focus fabrics can be kept in category groups, such as “I Spy,” or Asian prints.
  5. Arrange by color groups on shelves or in bins.  Typically larger cuts of fabric stack nicely, while fat quarters arrange well in storage bins.
  6. Label the shelves or bins by color so that fabrics can easily be located or stored.

Next week the 10th and final tip in this cleaning and organizing series will be posted.  It is something that every quilter should have to help in the design process of your quilts.  Don’t miss Tip 10 next week.

 

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Wanted – Tips For A New Longarm Quilter

Posted on February 20, 2012 by Joyce Blowers

Nolting Pro Longarm

“Help me.  I just got my longarm.  I really want to do this, but I don’t know where to start.”

Recently this was the question I had from a new longarm quilter.  She was overwhelmed with her new purchase, lived in an isolated area, and was even afraid to turn it on.

Many longarm quilters, including myself, previously quilted at a sit down, domestic machine before moving to a mid- or longarm quilting machine.  As we quickly found out, there were differences in the way these machines are designed and some of the features that are built into domestic machines that make sewing on them so easy simply are not available on the commercially built longarm machines.

I think that I can speak pretty universally that anyone that owns a longarm has encountered a few challenges as they began longarm quilting.  Even though I free motion quilted at my sit down machine for many years, there was a period of transition to the longarm.  No longer did I move the paper (quilt) under the pencil (needle), I now moved the pencil (needle) over the paper (quilt).  Some things became easier, like not fighting with all of the quilt bulk in that little space under the arm of my domestic machine, however, there were challenges and a new learning curve.

I did send her some suggestions on starting, what things she could do to practice her skill, and how to feel more comfortable with her purchase.  What words of encouragement and advice would you offer to this new longarm quilter?  How would you help her get started on her longarm quilting journey?

Longarm quilters, please share the comments, advice and encouragement that you would give to this new longarm quilter.  Thanks.

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Binding – A Great Finish

Posted on February 17, 2012 by Joyce Blowers

If there is any one thing that can spoil the look of an otherwise nice looking quilt, it is a poorly applied binding.  In fact, there are many quilters who do an excellent job on the quilt top, but have not learned how to make the binding look professional and well done.

Over the years I have perfected my bindings, learned how to sew them on correctly, how to miter the corners perfectly, and even how to do the hand sewing with expertise.  But, the task of joining the ends of the strip, well, that was a challenge.  I don’t know why it has taken so long, but I now have a fail proof technique that I teach that defies even a quilt judge to find where the beginning and end of the strip is joined.  A couple of years ago I was very pleased to receive high marks on the bindings of quilts submitted to two national quilt shows.  Best of all, the joining technique is not hard and I am happy to share it with you.

  1. Do not trim the batting and backing until after the binding has been sewn to the quilt.
  2. Pin the first 6-8 inches of the binding strip even with the edge of the quilt tip.  Start sewing about 6-8 inches from the end of the strip with a 1/4″ seam from the edge of the quilt top.  You will need this free end of the binding to manipulate when joining the two ends together.
  3. Miter each corner.  On the last side as you approach the pinned binding where you started, stop sewing about 6-8 inches from where the two ends will meet.  This will give you about 12-16 inches of binding to work with.
  4. Pin the end tails along the edge of the quilt laying the longer end on top of the pinned binding where you started.  If the binding measures 2 1/2″ wide, measure 2 1/2″ overlap past the start of the binding and cut off the rest of the tail.  Make sure the binding strip has a 2 1/2″ overlap as this is necessary for the joining the ends together.
  5. Rotate the quilt (right side up) so that the loose binding ends are on the side away from you and the quilt is closer to you.  Remove the pins.  Open out the binding so that the right sides are up and flat.  Turn and flip the binding in your right hand (side you started sewing first) so that it is perpendicular to the binding on the left side and with right sides together.  Place the long side of the perpendicular binding so that its right side and the end of the horizontal strip are even and the top right hand corners are together.  Stitch diagonally across this corner from the top left to the bottom right making a bias seam in the same way as when you joined the original strips together.  Let the binding fold back and make sure it correctly fits the distance.  If so, trim the extra, carefully finger press the seam open (remember the bias seam), re-pin along the quilt and finish stitching.  If it is too loose do not trim the seam, but instead, take out the bias seam.  Re-measure and trim a little off and resew.  If there is a very small extra, ease the small extra length over the distance and pin well.  Then stitch to the quilt top.
  6. Trim the batting and backing with your rotary cutter about 3/8 to 1/2 inch from the seam line.  Do a test cut at the wider measurement, fold to the back to check for coverage.  Adjust your cutting width as needed to make sure the binding folds nicely and covers to just past the stitch line.
  7. Fold the binding to the back of the quilt, miter corners, and hand stitch.

This method works well for both straight of grain and bias cut bindings.

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© Joyce Blowers and Delightful Quilting, 2012.  Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this blog’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited.  Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Joyce Blowers and Delightful Quilting with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.

Posted on February 16, 2012 by Joyce Blowers | Leave a comment

Steps 7 & 8 – Cleaning and Organizing Your Sewing Room

Posted on February 15, 2012 by Joyce Blowers

By now, I bet your sewing room is starting to look, not only organized, but very classy.  Let’s move on with steps 7 and 8 to really be set up to enjoy working in your space on those projects.

Step 7:  Add some background music.  What is your pleasure?  Classical, country, contemporary or jazz?  Get a CD player or turn the radio onto a music station and enjoy your favorite music.  If you are at the longarm quilting, you can even download music onto an MP3 and listen to your favorites.  Or, if what you are doing does not require a lot of concentration, how about a book on tape?  It is so easy now to “borrow” books from the library and load onto an MP3.  Or, just borrow books on tape/CD and listen to them while working.

Step 8:  Annual checkup time!  No, not you, your sewing machine(s).  Unscrew the top covers from your sewing machine if you can, dust thoroughly inside and out with a soft brush, and remove the throat plate cover so that you can clean out all of those dust bunnies from the bobbin area.  Use canned air to gently blow away all of the dust and lint.  Follow your manufactrer’s recommendations for oiling.  If it has been years since a professional cleaning, call your dealer to schedule a complete cleaning and adjustment checkup.  I know you just can’t part with your machine, but your machine will thank you and you will add years to the life of your machine.

PS.  If you have not had an annual checkup or a physical in a long time, call your doctor today and schedule one.

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Longarm Quilting “Speed Trap”

Posted on February 13, 2012 by Joyce Blowers

Nolting Pro Series Longarm

Wow!  You do love that stitch regulator that fires nice even stitches regardless of how fast or slow you move the longarm machine.  So, on the twists, turns, and points, you slow down.  But then, as you come to a straight-a-way you really open it up and speed along.  Have you ever stopped to think how quilting fast, then slow, then fast again has affected your over all quilting performance and the refinement of your longarm quilting skills?

When my quilting rhythm gets out of control, I am reminded of the first line from the 1960′s song, Feelin’ Groovy by Simon and Garfunkel, “Slow down, you’re moving too fast. . . .”  Does anyone remember that song?  This thought about “slowing down” and enjoying the process needs to be applied to your longarm quilting.

Let’s think about this.  Have ever quilted on a domestic, sit down machine with no stitch regulated capability?  If you have, you know that there is a fine balance between machine speed and moving the quilt to create nice even stitches.  In the unregulated mode on the longarm, you select a motor speed, not too fast, not too slow, just right, sort of like “Goldie Locks and the Three Bears.”  You find that “sweet” speed and learn to move the machine head with a consistent, even motion to create evenly spaced stitches.

Now that you own a longarm with a stitch regulator and can go as fast as you want to, doesn’t mean you should.  In fact, you will find that you will become a much better quilter if you apply the same even movement to your machine through the loopes, curves, points, and straight-a-ways when also in the stitch regulated mode.  You know your machine will fire consistent stitches, but maintaining the same even movement of the machine head has a double benefit.  It will reinforce and help you develop better quilting skills for both ends of the machine and in both stitching modes.

This principal of smooth, even stitching with the stitch regulator on was reinforced in a class I took from Sue Patten on free motion quilting ideas.  When you discipline yourself to quilt moving the machine smoothly in the regulated mode at both the back and front of the machine, you can quickly become proficient doing free motion quilting in the constant speed or unregulated mode.

Slow down!  Don’t fall for the “speed trap” just because you can go fast and still have great stitches.  Develop the control it takes in the regulated mode so that you can easily move from regulated free motion stitching and edge-to-edge quilting to unregulated free motion quilting and enjoy the best of both worlds.

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Problem Fixed – I Think

Posted on February 11, 2012 by Joyce Blowers

Thank you to each of you that is a subscriber to Delightful Quilting, a blog just for quilters.  I will be posting about three times a week.  One post will be of general interest to all quilters and might include something on quilt history, book reviews and product reviews.  The second post will be more like quilt class and will have helpful information on the design and construction of quilts.  The third post will be about the quilting part of making quilts and will be of help to free motion quilters and also have posts for longarm quilters.

Thank you for your patience as I have worked to get the header photo of my quilt back up and the pictures that got lost from two posts.  Take a look at the picture of the book, “Freehand Filler Patterns” in the book review and the picture of the airplane quilt I made for my grandson, Isaiah in the “I Love Quilting” post.

If you think your quilting friends would enjoy reading Delightful Quilting, please forward this link so that they can take a look and subscribe if they would like to.

As always, I love your comments.  If you have things you would like posts about or would like to write a guest blog on, please click here.

Again, thank you for subscribing to Delightful Quilting.

 Joyce
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5 Steps To An Outstanding Quilt Top

Posted on February 10, 2012 by Joyce Blowers

As a new, or even a more experienced quilter, have you ever wondered what the difference is between a “so-so” quilt top and an outstanding one?

Let’s look at five construction techniques you can implement to create an outstanding quilt top.

  1. Accurate cutting.  Learn how to use your mat, ruler and rotary cutter to measure and cut patches that are consistently accurate to the same dimension.  Even small size differences in cut patches translate into subunits and blocks of varying dimensions.
  2. Sew an accurate and consistent 1/4″ seam.  Use a 1/4″ foot and/or mark your machine bed with a tape guide at 1/4″ from the needle for a consistent 1/4″ seam guide.
  3. Proper pressing techniques.  Press (do not iron) to prevent distortion of the fabric.  Pressing is the up and down movement of the iron while ironing is sliding the iron back and forth.  First, press the seam on the wrong side to set the stitches.  Second, open the patches up and with the edge of the iron, gently nudge the seam open and press. 
  4. Perfectly matched seams.  When sewing subunits and blocks together, make sure the seams are pressed in opposite directions so that they can butt tightly together without any gap.  Use a pin to secure, then sew.
  5. Square it up.  Take time to square up each subunit to the same size before sewing into the block.  Then, square up each of the blocks in the quilt to the same size.  Here, as well as in cutting patches, small differences in sizes of plus or minus of even 1/8″ can translate into one or more inches variation in width or length across the quilt top.

By taking the time to be particular in each of these construction steps, you greatly increase the accuracy of the piecing creating a top of consistent size with parallel sides, square blocks, lovely matched intersections and sharp points.  These are some of the construction characteristics found in outstanding quilts.

Future blog posts will explain more detail on how to implement some of these steps.

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Steps 5 & 6 – Cleaning and Organizing Your Sewing Room

Posted on February 8, 2012 by Joyce Blowers

Let’s check now.  Dust and vacuum, done.  Sort and de-clutter, done.  Windows washed and sparkling, done.  White board – cork board combo on the wall, done.  We are ready for steps 5 and 6:

Step 5:  Since you spend, or want to spend, lots of time in your sewing studio creating all kinds of wonderful projects, your space needs to be as pleasant as possible.  You have already cleaned, de-cluttered and organized, now it is time to do a little decorating.  Hang a few photos or prints on the walls, or better yet, choose a few of your projects or wall hangings to hang up and enjoy the fruits of your labors.

Step 6:  Plan Your Space.  Perhaps we should have thought about this before, or maybe you already did, but think about how you use your space.  Is there a better way to arrange the “hardscape?”  The hardscape refers to the sewing machine and cabinet, work tables, cutting table, storage units, and your pressing area.  Think about how you use these things and whether their arrangement offers the most functionality for you.  Are you constantly walking clear across the room to press?  What about lighting?  Are you making the most of natural lighting?  Are items you use at the sewing machine conveniently located near the machine?  Think your way through how you use your space.  Don’t be afraid to move things around and try other arrangements.  You might come up with an arrangement that makes working in your sewing room or studio even more enjoyable.

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Thanks For The Comments

Posted on February 6, 2012 by Joyce Blowers

Not only is Delightful Quilting a new blog for quilters, but blogging is something very new for me.  It took quite awhile to research blogging and find out how to get one set up.  I am still in the learning phase of creating and posting, and I am having trouble getting pictures into my media library.  Although I have experience in creating a number of websites, hosting a blog offers a whole new learning curve for me.

One of the things I realize is that a blog is a forum for communication that is not intended to be just one way.  So, I encourage you to make comments on the posts, comments with ideas and tips that you find helpful, and please comment with ideas for posts.  We all have different experiences to draw on and have a wealth of information that we could share with each other.  One thing I would like to do is open up this blog for guest bloggers.  Please check the About page for information and a link to submit your idea for a post as a guest blogger. 

For now, I really appreciate your encouraging comments.  I can relate to Bev’s great comment on “I Love Quilting.”  I know just how you feel, Bev.  I love to see the light go on, too.  There is so much enjoyment from quilting – making quilts, quilting quilts and teaching others about quilting.  Also, take a look at Marcia’s thoughtful comment to the post about “How much piecing.”  and what we are surrounding ourselves with as we assemble the blocks of our lives.  Thanks for your thoughts.

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